My Journey of
PANDHARPUR WARI 2013
It was wish of mine from very long time to
attend WARI. Wari is the yatra which happens in Maharashtra in the month of
June to July. The journey starts from Dehu and Alandi and end at Pandharpur on
“Ashadi Ekadashi”. The devotees or pilgrims are called as ‘Warkaris’ and they
march in groups, each group of Warkaris is called as ‘Dindi’. The Warkaris walk
nearly 450 kilometers during their journey to reach Pandharpur. The Palkhi
carries the silver padukas (footsteps) of Sant Tukaram & Sant Dnyaneshwar. The
tradition of carrying Padukas to the Wari was introduced by the youngest son of
Tukaram in the year 1685. Since then Dnyaneshwar and Tukaram Padukas are
carried by pilgrims to Pandharpur to pay tribute to the God Vitthal. Both
Palkhis goes from different directions to pandharpur and in this procession
around 3 lakhs of people participates. I decided to go for "Sant Tukaram
Maharaj Palkhi" (Don’t ask me why because I really don’t know why I
decided).
I started my journey 8:00 o’clock on Saturday
morning. There were heavy rains outside so I packed everything with a double
plastic. I was really very concerned about camera. So I kept it with 4 layers
of plastic. Finally with 2 waist bags, backpack, tripod, double rain jacket and
rain pants and most important helmet and Karizma R. Now I was set to hit the
road. Started riding from Mulund-Airoli-old Panvel –Khopoli – Khandala –
Lonavla – Wakad - Pune_Solapur road - Patas and finally reached Baramati road.
I took halt at Lonavla to have most delicious Misal. There is one small hotel
behind fariyas call as a "Buan chi Misal". I cannot compare the test
of Misal and tea of that hotel with anyone else. After having this I started my
further journey.
Misal at Khandala
I knew that Palkhi was going to be somewhere
in PATAS and Baramati road. So from Lonavla next destination was Pune-Solapur
road. So to reach there I have to travel via Pune city. Trust me guys it is
very difficult to cross Pune city then Mumbai-Pune road.
The people of Pune are crazy drivers but so
much helpful also. Usually In Mumbai we have to
stop somewhere n ask for directions but in Pune you can ask directions while riding
also. They have very good directional skills, without stopping they can tell
you directions in fractions. Google maps sucks in front of them.. ha ha ha...
finally i was out of city and on Pune-Solapur highway.
This road was really awesome. No turns, no
ghats, straight and forward road. You can see 2-3 km of road in single sight.
So best chance for me to test Karizma. 110-120 was my avg speed. I covered 70km
of distance in 50 mins. Karizma is so throttle responsive and also gives you
confidence to control. Finally i reached to Patas toll naka and took a right
turn from highway. The road name was "Sant Tukaram Maharaja Palkhi Mahamarg". ohhhh
so relief, i was on right road.
On the way of Baramati.. Mumbai Solapur expressway
Sant Tukaram Palkhi Highway
I started enjoying surroundings and riding slowly. After few km i was at exactly behind of Palkhi procession and believe me guys that were so big. Only the thing that I can see was people n people walking in that Palkhi procession. Few mins back it’s was just a quiet and clam village road and suddenly so much of crowd walking. I was exactly at the tail of procession.
Immediately I unpacked myself and pulled out the
camera and tripod and started clicking. ohh God !! What to click?? So many
activities were going on at the same time around me. All the Warkaries were in
white clothes, the ladies were in sarees and carrying something on their
head. Men were carrying Dholki, Tal in their hands and Name of god on their
lips. I kept on riding by road side without disturbing them, capturing each and
every movement. I kept on riding for another 40 mins with procession, and
finally I reached near palkhi. When i reached there, the palkhi was stopped
for afternoon halt. I parked my bike on side of road.
You know
guys when you have camera with you, people automatically starts smiling and
becomes helping to you. The Palkhi was all over surrounded with people but it
was my luck that they gave me chance to go closer to it. Wow guys, seriously
the Palkhi was decorated beautifully with flowers and so many colors. Then i moved little bit closer and touch the
"PADUKAS of Sant Tukaram". I touched it and close my eyes and said
thank you for allowing me to reach till you. (Rest of things are secret). I
opened my eyes after few seconds and I felt myself so blessed.
Suddenly I heard a voice calling me "O
camera wale". I looked at that person and he further said "Te
Adhyaksha saheb bolavatayet tumhala" (President is calling you) and i
thought for 2 sec "why he is calling?" and went to him. Then he started enquiring about me, from
where you came? What you do? etc etc. I gave him my information that I am not
reporter and shared my thoughts about coming here. He told me full history
about Palkhi and ask to eat something as i traveled from far distance. Then
his person took me to truck where they pour me "mast Bhakari" and
"mix Usal".. waah what a test !! I cannot hold myself from asking
more. Then after clicking few photographs of Palkhi, i
decided to move ahead where the Palkhi was going to take a night halt. It was
very difficult to ride a bike and stay with Palkhi for whole day, so my plan
was to move ahead and park bike at location where Palkhi is going to take
night halt and then come back and start walking with the Palkhi. While going,
the weather was really good. No rains. So i can use camera fearlessly.
Atmosphere was so clear and no mountains around. Only plain areas. Best to
click for long pictures. I saw one good location, so went there
and click few more pictures with Karizma and me.
Me with Palkhi Adhyaksha.
Palkhi Horse
After around few more km I reached to night halt stop. Time was around 3 PM.
First thing I observed is our government’s alertness. There were Doctors with medicine, Ambulance's, Fire-bridged vehicles, lots of police, army people, Tractor trolley Toilets, trolley dustbins, Water tanker with tap, huge number of tents for night stay and continuous announcement of instructions. I cannot say it’s all well managed but happy to see the courtesy for people.
Medical Facility
The most important thing was free meal for
everyone. Yes guys there was free Meal, Tea, Snacks, Water bottle arranged for Warkaris and that's really admirable. Just you need to stand in a queue for 1 km or more than that. I myself checked their kitchen for Cleanliness but this time i lied that i am a reporter of Mumbai based magazine.
Top view of that area. Clicked from elevated Water Tank.
This man took electricity by putting his wires in high power line in front of me.
I parked
my bike in safe place, put all the things on my shoulders and started walking
back towards palkhi again. It was fun walking with so much of weight of
backpack, tripod, umbrella, 2 waist bags, in one hand camera and another hand
with Helmet. Fortunately one bike rider gave me lift till Palkhi. Time was
around 4:30pm. This was the most important time for me because now i was
walking with palkhi. So many people was walking around me. The people in Red
dress are the Guards for Dindis. The person with oval metal sign and white
cloths are "Chopadars". They are official Palkhi guards from 200+
years. That Metal oval mark is also 200+ years old. The people with "Tambora"
cannot put there tambora's down until they finish their journey till
pandharpur.
Guard of Dindi
Chopdar (Guards of Palkhi)
People with Tambora
I was amazed and astonished by looking at the
energy those people had in themselves.. They were walking from 150 km.. Every
day around 30-40 km.. Nights on the grounds.. In the season of rain.. Still
they were dancing, singing, walking with the same energy.. Some of the Warkaris
were handicapped, some were too old to walk, some people were carrying their
loved one on bicycle as they cannot walk, some people cannot even stand
properly still being the part of this. I walked with them for last 7 km.
Finally the Palkhi reached at the halt location in the night where it was
supposed to be kept.
Immediately last prayer performed over there.
One person sang prayer on microphone and thousands of the Warkaries follow his
words. It was the moment I never experience in my life. Think about this..
Thousand of Warkaries praying together, in a same tune and soft pitch. They
were so lost in it and the whole area was filled with their words. I was shooting
them and can easily able to see their devotion towards there Sant Tukaram
Maharaj and Lord Vithala.. I felt something which i never felt before. It was
all overwhelming spiritual experience for me.
Palkhi Video
Sant Tukaram Maharaj Aarati Part 1
Sant Tukaram Maharaj Aarati Part 2
I also finished the prayers with them and one
person came to me and invited for dinner which was arranged for all management
member of "Sant Tukaram Palkhi". In dinner we were provided chapati
and Vangi Bhaji. The biggest chapati I have ever seen in my life. I finished my
dinner had some casual talks with management people. They were really very nice
and polite to me. Finally it was time to leave. I packed myself again with
everything and headed towards Pune again. Time was around 10:00 PM and I
reached Pune at 12:00 AM. Stayed with my very old friend in Pune and next day I
was back in Mumbai.
It was all awakening for me. Total 350 km I
ride in a day. Had 7 km of walk with 10kg of luggage. Still the energy was same
for me in whole journey. It was difficult for me to leave from that place. On
the way back random thoughts were coming in to my mind. The Warkaris life, they
live very simple, 90% of Warkaris were farmers, they were free from laptops,
electrical gadgets, costly cloths they don’t even had roof to sleep, clean
things to eat but still they are happy with what they have. Their devotion
towards there god and the way they live there life is very different then us
and surely it make me learn many important lessons for my life. I felt myself
very blessed that I got this opportunity to experience very basic life of
Warkaries for one day.
Innocent Smiles
