My Journey of 

PANDHARPUR WARI 2013

It was wish of mine from very long time to attend WARI. Wari is the yatra which happens in Maharashtra in the month of June to July. The journey starts from Dehu and Alandi and end at Pandharpur on “Ashadi Ekadashi”. The devotees or pilgrims are called as ‘Warkaris’ and they march in groups, each group of Warkaris is called as ‘Dindi’. The Warkaris walk nearly 450 kilometers during their journey to reach Pandharpur. The Palkhi carries the silver padukas (footsteps) of Sant Tukaram & Sant Dnyaneshwar. The tradition of carrying Padukas to the Wari was introduced by the youngest son of Tukaram in the year 1685. Since then Dnyaneshwar and Tukaram Padukas are carried by pilgrims to Pandharpur to pay tribute to the God Vitthal. Both Palkhis goes from different directions to pandharpur and in this procession around 3 lakhs of people participates. I decided to go for "Sant Tukaram Maharaj Palkhi" (Don’t ask me why because I really don’t know why I decided).

I started my journey 8:00 o’clock on Saturday morning. There were heavy rains outside so I packed everything with a double plastic. I was really very concerned about camera. So I kept it with 4 layers of plastic. Finally with 2 waist bags, backpack, tripod, double rain jacket and rain pants and most important helmet and Karizma R. Now I was set to hit the road. Started riding from Mulund-Airoli-old Panvel –Khopoli – Khandala – Lonavla – Wakad - Pune_Solapur road - Patas and finally reached Baramati road. I took halt at Lonavla to have most delicious Misal. There is one small hotel behind fariyas call as a "Buan chi Misal". I cannot compare the test of Misal and tea of that hotel with anyone else. After having this I started my further journey.

Misal at Khandala

I knew that Palkhi was going to be somewhere in PATAS and Baramati road. So from Lonavla next destination was Pune-Solapur road. So to reach there I have to travel via Pune city. Trust me guys it is very difficult to cross Pune city then Mumbai-Pune road.

The people of Pune are crazy drivers but so much helpful also. Usually In Mumbai we have to stop somewhere n ask for directions but in Pune you can ask directions while riding also. They have very good directional skills, without stopping they can tell you directions in fractions. Google maps sucks in front of them.. ha ha ha... finally i was out of city and on Pune-Solapur highway.

This road was really awesome. No turns, no ghats, straight and forward road. You can see 2-3 km of road in single sight. So best chance for me to test Karizma. 110-120 was my avg speed. I covered 70km of distance in 50 mins. Karizma is so throttle responsive and also gives you confidence to control. Finally i reached to Patas toll naka and took a right turn from highway. The road name was "Sant Tukaram Maharaja Palkhi Mahamarg". ohhhh so relief, i was on right road.

On the way of Baramati.. Mumbai Solapur expressway

Sant Tukaram Palkhi Highway

I started enjoying surroundings and riding slowly. After few km i was at exactly behind of Palkhi procession and believe me guys that were so big. Only the thing that I can see was people n people walking in that Palkhi procession. Few mins back it’s was just a quiet and clam village road and suddenly so much of crowd walking. I was exactly at the tail of procession.

Immediately I unpacked myself and pulled out the camera and tripod and started clicking. ohh God !! What to click?? So many activities were going on at the same time around me. All the Warkaries were in white clothes, the ladies were in sarees and carrying something on their head. Men were carrying Dholki, Tal in their hands and Name of god on their lips. I kept on riding by road side without disturbing them, capturing each and every movement. I kept on riding for another 40 mins with procession, and finally I reached near palkhi. When i reached there, the palkhi was stopped for afternoon halt. I parked my bike on side of road.

You know guys when you have camera with you, people automatically starts smiling and becomes helping to you. The Palkhi was all over surrounded with people but it was my luck that they gave me chance to go closer to it. Wow guys, seriously the Palkhi was decorated beautifully with flowers and so many colors. Then i moved little bit closer and touch the "PADUKAS of Sant Tukaram". I touched it and close my eyes and said thank you for allowing me to reach till you. (Rest of things are secret). I opened my eyes after few seconds and I felt myself so blessed.

Suddenly I heard a voice calling me "O camera wale". I looked at that person and he further said "Te Adhyaksha saheb bolavatayet tumhala" (President is calling you) and i thought for 2 sec "why he is calling?" and went to him. Then he started enquiring about me, from where you came? What you do? etc etc. I gave him my information that I am not reporter and shared my thoughts about coming here. He told me full history about Palkhi and ask to eat something as i traveled from far distance. Then his person took me to truck where they pour me "mast Bhakari" and "mix Usal".. waah what a test !! I cannot hold myself from asking more. Then after clicking few photographs of Palkhi, i decided to move ahead where the Palkhi was going to take a night halt. It was very difficult to ride a bike and stay with Palkhi for whole day, so my plan was to move ahead and park bike at location where Palkhi is going to take night halt and then come back and start walking with the Palkhi. While going, the weather was really good. No rains. So i can use camera fearlessly. Atmosphere was so clear and no mountains around. Only plain areas. Best to click for long pictures. I saw one good location, so went there and click few more pictures with Karizma and me.

Me with Palkhi Adhyaksha.

Palkhi Horse

After around few more km I reached to night halt stop. Time was around 3 PM.

First thing I observed is our government’s alertness. There were Doctors with medicine, Ambulance's, Fire-bridged vehicles, lots of police, army people, Tractor trolley Toilets, trolley dustbins, Water tanker with tap, huge number of tents for night stay and continuous announcement of instructions. I cannot say it’s all well managed but happy to see the courtesy for people.

Medical Facility

The most important thing was free meal for everyone. Yes guys there was free Meal, Tea, Snacks, Water bottle arranged for Warkaris and that's really admirable. Just you need to stand in a queue for 1 km or more than that. I myself checked their kitchen for Cleanliness but this time i lied that i am a reporter of Mumbai based magazine. 

Top view of that area. Clicked from elevated Water Tank.

This man took electricity by putting his wires in high power line in front of me.

I parked my bike in safe place, put all the things on my shoulders and started walking back towards palkhi again. It was fun walking with so much of weight of backpack, tripod, umbrella, 2 waist bags, in one hand camera and another hand with Helmet. Fortunately one bike rider gave me lift till Palkhi. Time was around 4:30pm. This was the most important time for me because now i was walking with palkhi. So many people was walking around me. The people in Red dress are the Guards for Dindis. The person with oval metal sign and white cloths are "Chopadars". They are official Palkhi guards from 200+ years. That Metal oval mark is also 200+ years old. The people with "Tambora" cannot put there tambora's down until they finish their journey till pandharpur.

Guard of Dindi

Chopdar (Guards of Palkhi)

People with Tambora

I was amazed and astonished by looking at the energy those people had in themselves.. They were walking from 150 km.. Every day around 30-40 km.. Nights on the grounds.. In the season of rain.. Still they were dancing, singing, walking with the same energy.. Some of the Warkaris were handicapped, some were too old to walk, some people were carrying their loved one on bicycle as they cannot walk, some people cannot even stand properly still being the part of this. I walked with them for last 7 km. Finally the Palkhi reached at the halt location in the night where it was supposed to be kept.

Immediately last prayer performed over there. One person sang prayer on microphone and thousands of the Warkaries follow his words. It was the moment I never experience in my life. Think about this.. Thousand of Warkaries praying together, in a same tune and soft pitch. They were so lost in it and the whole area was filled with their words. I was shooting them and can easily able to see their devotion towards there Sant Tukaram Maharaj and Lord Vithala.. I felt something which i never felt before. It was all overwhelming spiritual experience for me.

Palkhi Video

Sant Tukaram Maharaj Aarati Part 1

Sant Tukaram Maharaj Aarati Part 2

I also finished the prayers with them and one person came to me and invited for dinner which was arranged for all management member of "Sant Tukaram Palkhi". In dinner we were provided chapati and Vangi Bhaji. The biggest chapati I have ever seen in my life. I finished my dinner had some casual talks with management people. They were really very nice and polite to me. Finally it was time to leave. I packed myself again with everything and headed towards Pune again. Time was around 10:00 PM and I reached Pune at 12:00 AM. Stayed with my very old friend in Pune and next day I was back in Mumbai.

It was all awakening for me. Total 350 km I ride in a day. Had 7 km of walk with 10kg of luggage. Still the energy was same for me in whole journey. It was difficult for me to leave from that place. On the way back random thoughts were coming in to my mind. The Warkaris life, they live very simple, 90% of Warkaris were farmers, they were free from laptops, electrical gadgets, costly cloths they don’t even had roof to sleep, clean things to eat but still they are happy with what they have. Their devotion towards there god and the way they live there life is very different then us and surely it make me learn many important lessons for my life. I felt myself very blessed that I got this opportunity to experience very basic life of Warkaries for one day.

Innocent Smiles